Walking the apple blossomed path takes you to the weathered front door of the Felin Fach Griffin gastro pub and swinging it open leads you into a comfortable front room.
The cluster of leather settees and large armchairs, have seen many a backside slide comfortably into the cushions, an open fire grate is loaded with logs ready for a chilly night or the approaching of a cold winter.
Take a Sherry Before Eating
Before sitting at your table spend a little time in this anteroom, soak up the atmosphere of past generations. Sip on a pre-prandial sherry while scanning the small collection of books or picking up a newspaper and catching up on the latest news of Wales and the World. It is easy to allow this cozy room to lull you into a state of tranquility and stillness but don’t spend too long here before wandering into the dining area.
Felin Fach Griffin Cuisine
Choose a window seat to gaze on the green landscape of this Welsh Golden Triangle: within easy striking distance are the used book capital of the World, in medieval Hey-on-Wye, Bruce Chatwin’s beloved Black Mountains and the rugged, sheep speckled mountains of the Brecon Beacons. In the summer months al fresco dining sharpens the appetite.
The menu is extensive enough and most of the ingredients are locally sourced, fresh and farmed using organic and sustainable methods. Some indeed comes from the Felin Fach Griffin’s own organic garden.
Fresh Local Produce
On my last visit I ordered the creamed and smoked haddock on toast with a poached duck egg. The haddock was fresh and delivered that day. The poached duck egg sat on top like the king of eggs and as soon as the knife broke the surface and sank into the haddock and toast, a mini torrent of golden yolk bathed the lower reaches of the bread.
The taste combination was just right, a lingering smoky fish perfectly complementing the creamy egg and fusing into a meld of subtle flavours.
I followed this with roast calf’s liver in a beetroot risotto. I am still salivating over this dish. The moist, crimson-tinted rice was tart with the addition of beetroot and the liver tender and fluffy with the right resistance to increase the satisfaction of every bite. The dish was perfect and substantial, pleasing the eye and the taste buds in equal proportion.
The wine list was interesting as it contained labels that are not normally seen in the common-or-garden supermarket racks. Indeed the Felin Fach Griffin’s proud claim is that if one of their wines is to be found at such enterprises then it is not good enough for their customers.
Marques de Caza 2010 a Delight
I choose a bottle of a fine Rioja style wine, Marques de Caza 2010 from Spain’s La Mancha region and produced from the tempranillo grape. As it rested in the glass its garnet colour was highlighted with a shaft of sunlight from the window. As it ran slowly to into the glass a soft summer fruits nose was pleasing. The nose followed through to the palate with an after-taste of blackberries that lingered sufficiently to satisfy the taste buds. It was dry to the finish leaving a well-balanced after taste. A pleasant medium bodied wine light on tannins but made its presence known.
The service was unobtrusive yet attentive and the waiter had a good knowledge of the menu and wines. The Felin Fach Griffin is one of Wales’s best pubs and a foodie’s delight.
Contact
The Felin Fach Griffin, Felin Fach, Brecon, LD3 0UB, Wales, UK
Phone: + 44 (0) 1874 620 111
Email: enquiries@felinfachgriffin.co.uk
John Howe - John Howe is a qualified nurse, lecturer and journalist, he has written extensively on health, travel and lifestyle in Asia and Europe.
